Cafe Fresco
Come for the Food, Stay for the Atmosphere
photos by Zach Hoffman, by Cassi Miller
Two words come to mind after a night out at Fresco Café: rich and vibrant. On the corner of Mendenhall and Rouse, just a stone’s throw from bustling Main Street, Bill and Susan Neubauer have carved out a unique niche in the Bozeman food scene. As you stroll down the sidewalk next to bubbling Bozeman Creek and pass Fresco’s quaint patio, you step through the doors and are met with the warm, inviting scent of delicious Italian food, the din of lively dinner conversation, and an opportunity to try something new. And, that’s exactly the experience Bill and Susan have worked to cultivate.
I sat down with Bill on a quiet Monday morning before the restaurant opened for lunch, but the café was already alive with activity. The wait staff and chefs were gearing up for the day; there was laughter, jokes, and lively preparation in the works. It felt like people were genuinely enjoying their work, and that’s the point.
CM: Did you always want to be a chef?
BN: My grandfather opened his first restaurant in 1932 and his picture hangs on the wall of this restaurant, so you could say that food has been in my blood since before I was born. My parents owned and operated a supper club, and that’s where I got my start. At 13, I was in the back scrubbing potatoes and cleaning shrimp. When I went off to college in Boulder, Colorado to get my political science degree, it felt natural to continue working in restaurants and bistros to make my way through school. My first job in Boulder was at a small restaurant called Pearl’s, but I took it very seriously. I was the broiler chef, but I studied that menu and learned everything I could to do my job as best as possible. There was also a sauté chef at Pearl’s, which I was very interested in. I got a chance to utilize that interest when the sauté chef walked out one night and I had to take over with less than two hours experience. But, I was hooked. From then on, food was always on my mind.
Even with a poli sci degree, I just couldn’t let go of food. One day, I saw an ad in the Bozeman paper for a small, 20-seat restaurant and I thought this was my chance. That was the original Fresco location that I opened on Seventh Avenue eight years ago.
CM: So, what has changed in the last five years?
BN: Well, to be honest, the first few years of running Fresco were rough. I never knew if I’d be cooking for five people or 60, and it was often a one-man show. But, my connection to the community helped. I worked ski patrol in Big Sky and sometimes the crew would come in, bringing their friends along with them. One night, so many of them stopped by and packed the restaurant that I set the ticket book on the table and told them to write their own orders and hang them in the kitchen window just so I could focus on putting out food. A lot has changed since then.
For starters, I won the lottery for a beer and wine license, which is an experience in itself. From day one, it was clear people wanted to enjoy good wine and beer with good food, but that couldn’t happen without the proper license. Feeling a little frustrated, I called Dave from Dave’s Sushi and asked him for advice. He said it was better to have a full restaurant than to tell people no at the door and have no one show up. Knowing that I was in the process of being able to offer alcohol, our devoted customers patiently bided their time until I received my license. It was also a challenge to find people to help Fresco run smoothly. Again, Dave told me that it wasn’t about seeking out a good crew. They would find you. And find me they did. As I built my staff and business became steadier, the opportunity for this space came up. That was two years ago. Now, along with the help of good friends from culinary school who occasionally drop into Bozeman, we’ve cultivated a one-of-a-kind Italian lunch and dinner menu. But, we’re never really done. It’s a continual evolution.
CM: What do you like best about working in a restaurant of your own?
BN: Well, in the second year at Fresco Café in this space, I feel satisfaction. It’s not about pure bliss or complete happiness. My restaurant has the potential to be the best part of someone’s day. I can come around the corner and see diners chatting, laughing, drinking red wine, and forgetting about the stresses of daily life. That’s the feel of this place. An escape. I like that best.
CM: What would you say makes Fresco unique in the Bozeman food scene?
BN: Our goal is to serve elegant food with diverse flavor. We want the atmosphere to feel casual and inviting. I always believed that if we made good food, the people would come. And we want all people to come. We want everyone to enjoy our restaurant. At night, I always wear a tie when I greet guests at the door because I don’t want anyone to feel overdressed. But, I don’t want anyone to feel out of place either. For some, this might be their fancy night out and for others it might be a quick dinner in jeans. We fit all tastes and styles. We’re eclectic, like Bozeman.
CM: Is that the type of experience you want people to have when they come here?
BN: I want them to have their own experience. In today’s society, it’s important to have something unique and individual to enjoy. Working in this industry, I’ve learned to read people. Some customers want solitude when they come in and others are here to visit and enjoy the company. If we’ve made their day better, we’ve done something right.
CM: Lastly, what do you love about being in Bozeman?
BN: I love that more adults play hockey here than kids! In Boulder, it was the other way around and I was always looking for that opportunity to recreate. But, that’s Bozeman, isn’t it? Recreation is a priority here. Not to sound too cliché, but we really do work hard and play hard. I work hard at the restaurant and enjoy the opportunity to get outdoors and do something. And that something can be different every time I head out, skiing, hiking, whatever. That’s part of living here. Fresco can be a part of someone else’s definition of “play” after a hard day of work.
If you’re in the mood for delicious Italian cuisine, a quaint, rustic atmosphere, and camaraderie over food and drink, Fresco Café is a dining experience that you can’t pass up. Come for the food, but stay for the atmosphere.